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A Brief History Of
Green Tea
By: Michael Ganzeveld
The first tea plants known were thought
to be grown in Yunnan Province in southern China. From there they spread to
other parts of Asia that had the right types of soil and weather conditions.
The custom of drinking tea is said to have originated in China with the
emperor Shen Nong. Regarded as an iconoclast of Chinese medicine, he
introduced the tea plant to people around the year 2700 B.C. The classic on
Chinese Tea, Cha jing (The Book of Tea), written by the scholar Lu Yu in
A.D. 760, recounts Shen Nong’s efforts to discover the medicinal
effectiveness of over three hundred varieties of roots, grass, and tree
barks. Legend has it that he would try all of them on himself first and
whenever he ingested something poisonous he would cleanse himself by eating
tea leaves.
It seems certain that tea leaves were initially eaten as a medicine long
before tea became a popular drink. In fact, there are still some hill tribes
in southern China, Thailand, and northern Myanmar that still eat pickled tea
leaves, and only until recent times were they aware that a drink could be
brewed from the same leaves!
According to Kouga, the ancient dictionary written during the Later Han
dynasty (A.D. 25-220), people in Sichuan Province of western China,
compressed steamed leaves into hard bricks to help maintain the quality of
the tea over a greater period (very handy when transporting, too). When
making a beverage they would season the mixture with ginger or onion.
However, this early concoction would not qualify as a conventional beverage
in the usual sense because its intended use was medicinal.
During the Three Kingdoms period (221-65), the popularity of tea saw a rapid
increase. One cause for this was the widening increase in the practice of
Buddhism, which was beginning to gain a wider following. Buddhism prohibits
the drinking of alcohol and so that boosted the demand for tea.
During the Sui dynasty (581-618), the custom of drinking tea, previously
limited to the aristocracy and Buddhist monks, began to filter through to
other classes. In the mid-eighth century, tea shops sprung up, and gradually
tea became an indispensable beverage for ordinary city-dwellers.
It was around this time that Lu Yu, who came from the tea producing center
of Hubei Province, wrote his treatise on tea. The range of Yu’s work is
impressive. It covers the origins, methods of plant cultivation, the types
of utensils used, the best ways to prepare and drink tea, and tales relating
to tea and tea-growing. His expansive compendium of information spanned
three volumes, opening with the propitious line: “There are good luck trees
in the south that are beneficial to a person’s health.” When published the
book met with great acclaim and is still looked upon today as a bible of
sorts concerning tea.
Tea arrived in Japan from China. It was brought by Japanese Buddhist monks
who accompanied the special representatives sent to China in the early Heian
period (794-1185). Among the monks who traveled to China were Saicho
(767-822), Kukai (774-835), and Eichu (743-816). The first record of the
custom of tea-drinking in Japan appeared in Nihon koki (Notes on Japan),
compiled in the Heian period. Eichu, a priest at the temple of Bonshakuji in
Omi, Aichi Prefecture, returned to China in 815. The Nihon koki records that
when Emperor Saga (reign, 809-23) visited Omi, Eichu invited him to his
temple and served him sencha, suggesting that drinking tea, a popular
pastime in Tang times, had also become fashionable in Japan’s intellectual
circles. Roun-shu, an anthology of Chinese poetry written in Japanese in
814, also mentions tea-tasting.
At that time, tea probably came in the form of hard bricks, as described by
Lu Yu. Compressed into a brick shape into a brick shape, tea was not only
easy to transport but also held up better during the long voyage from China.
This was most likely the type of tea brought to Japan, even though leaf tea
was also used in China at that time. The brick was first warmed over a flame
and then a portion was broken off by hand or shaved off with a knife. The
shavings were ground with a mortar into a powder, which was added to a pan
of hot water and brewed and then was served in a bowl.
Emperor Saga tried to encourage the spread of tea by demanding provinces in
the Kinki region around Kyoto to grow the plant. He established tea gardens
in one district of Kyoto, and started growing and processing it for the use
of physicians attached to the court. This imperial tea, however, found use
mostly in rituals performed by the aristocracy; the beverage had yet to
become an item for consumption by the common people.
Ordinary Japanese only began to drink tea much later, after Eisai
(1141-1215), the founder of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, brought back a
new type of seedling from Sung-dynasty China. With it he introduced a new
way of drinking tea which was known as the “matcha style.” Eisai encouraged
the cultivation of tea trees, and his Kissa yojoki (Health Benefits of Tea)
tied tea-drinking to longevity and launched tea in Japan on a large scale.
About the Author:
Michael Ganzeveld is a graduate of Iowa State University and writes for the
online health site GreenTeaPhd. To use this article the author asks that you
link to the following url:
http://www.greenteaphd.com
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